Madagascar to South Africa Two Days Out – Apprehension

Adina left the big red island of Madagascar at 0520 local time on Friday 7th October. It was our second attempt forty-eight hours after having returned a bit shell-shocked from a bashing on the first attempt. Understandably we were a little nervous but the weather forecast this time looked more promising. As we left we soon realised the forecast was wrong yet again, this time happily in our favour. With winds due to be nothing from behind we had expected to motor out, instead we found ourselves sailing upwind in fair winds and we could immediately sail due west as planned. The strategy we are using is to cross to the Mozambique side of the channel and then head south using more favourable winds and most importantly favourable current down that coast. It also means when a southerly buster comes up, which it inevitably will, you can take refuge in a few hideaways on the Mozambique coast.

The waters off Cap Andre where we departed from are shallow, ten to thirty metres, for a long way out. This creates a somewhat bouncy to rough sea state depending on the wind strength. You want to get away from these as fast as possible. But the winds moved north-west leaving us steering south and sailing over the shoals all day long, trapped.

These are good waters for fishing trawlers and we had to play dodgems trying to stay well clear of their vast nets that hang out the back. And if you can’t beat them, well, join them. Finally Susie granted permission for fishing lines to be deployed. The freezer has been well stocked this year and we have a nice record of catching fish on every long passage between countries this year.

A while later the lure was spinning away madly – but it was odd, it looked like a 1L plastic milk bottle was caught on it. Saddened it wasn’t a fish we hauled it in – but it was a fish and a shark had bitten off its tail and the poor thing was spinning round! Strike 1 – a nice wahoo. Or yaa-heee as our friends Charlie and Nicola in London call them.

As it got dark the winds died and we could finally motor out of the shoals and head due west. On the way down the Mozambique coast are three possible stops. The first Bazaruto, apparently a beautiful spot full of islands and sandbanks. The next stop is Linga Linga at Inhambane and the third stop Maputo before you head south to Richards Bay in South Africa. You use these stops as shelter points if a strong south wind comes up. If we average 6 knots of speed over the ground we should make Linga Linga before the next southerly buster comes up. But sailing downwind and with a lot of light winds forecast in parts it’s proving to be a challenge to achieve. And you need to pray that southerly doesn’t come up early. Day 1, Friday 7th, we averaged 5.5 knots.

Saturday dawned and we were motoring. Light winds were forecast and we opted to motorsail – that means using the sails to harness what wind there is and the engine also to propel us forward. We know it’s a push to get to Inhambane and we agreed we have to work hard on sail changes, trimming etc. to maximise our speed. It wasn’t long before the spinnaker pole was being used to keep the big genoa pinned out to try to catch more wind. And then the wind changed and we swapped it all over again.

While our fishing record remains proudly intact, it seemed wrong not to have another go. Susie had just woken when she was asked to help administer some alcohol to a small yellowfin tuna’s gills. Our technique is to haul the fish in, quickly place a towel over its eyes to calm it and wish it away with a tot of some spirit. Works a treat and worry not that particular spirit is better used on a fish than drunk. Strike 2 – Yellowfin tuna is Susie’s favourite fish and a real treat.

Our first two days on passage we always take it easy trying to find our sea legs. That meant reading and playing our favourite Monopoly Deal card game. The fishing lines still out while we played, we hooked a mahi – that would complete the trio of deep water fish! It was a sizeable male bull and pretty mad. Mahi, otherwise known as dorado or dolphin fish, are big green/blue fish with yellow fins and bulging heads. And they fight – you always know when you’ve hooked one as they dash from side to side, spin around madly to try and free themselves. This one was an expert and while we played it in the water, as we pulled it out, it’s final furious spinning and thrashing madly got it off the hook. No doubt off to tell his friends to stay well clear of anything pink in colour as they have nasty hooks. A shame to lose it.

Late afternoon the winds picked up but alas we had adverse current against us. Into the night we sailed as best we could and when the wind blew we did well. But it didn’t last and we sailed on with light winds constantly adjusting the sails. All-in-all it had been a good day and by dawn of Sunday we were close enough to the Mozambique coast to head south and hopefully well positioned to find good current. Winds are variable today but due to increase to quite breezy tonight.

End of day 2 and the average speed over ground is up to 5.8 knots, a reward for our work but still short of our 6 knot target. It’s an anxious game this one.