The Art of Friendship – Isla Pinos to Achutupu, San Blas Islands

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Sunday 9 February 2014

7am we departed Isla Pinos, waving goodbye to our anchored Panama Coastguard neighbours, and headed off for the island of Achutupu.

The reason for an early departure is that you want to be arriving at your destination with the sun overhead or behind you so as to be able to see the reefs and shallow sections that scatter the San Blas islands.

Having chosen to sail some of the more remote southern San Blas islands we knew our Navionics electronic charts didn’t cover them, simply blanketing them all as ‘shallow’. Fortunately we had purchased the Panama Cruising Guide which provides more detailed charts so it was back to good old paper chart plotting and noting the waypoints on the screen plotter and really paying attention! Tom planned the routes and then while underway Susie followed our position on the chart. Strategy was to inform the helm on what to expect on the next leg, where safe water was (if any), and especially any reefs to look out for. The bigger reefs are fairly simple to spot as they have breaking waves. Lots of good old eyeball navigation and remaining focused. We had expected little wind in these parts but enjoyed 10-11 knots of breeze. Again, you don’t put all your sail out as if you need to slow down quickly…

Adina with Panama in the background

Adina with Panama in the background

The approach to Achutupu was our first real challenge and we squeezed in between gaps in the reef. It almost seems insane taking your yacht so close to some of these reefs protecting the islands, you can see them in the water next to you! But our destination was a nice sheltered bay and, as we predicted, thick mud for anchoring. Given practise, we now think we’ve got it right on anchoring in mud. Slowly, slowly. Drop your anchor, let the wind push you back, wait, let the anchor start to dig in, few little revs with engine in reverse, wait, let it dig in more, few more revs, whoops too many, it’s out and dragging. Two attempts and we got it – we’re getting the hang of it, just takes time.

Out came the dinghy, time to visit the local island. They’re a funny bunch the Kuna Indians, lovely sort but they just sit and watch you, no directing you, no “can I take your line”, help you in, welcome. Nope – you are this afternoon’s entertainment. We always smile, a few hellos and then ask if we can explore. Si, no problemo. So you have to ask where to go (this is definitely not Lonely Planet Guidebook territory). Anywhere. Ok! And we’d forgotten our shoes! Poor Gringos these ones. Luckily a young boy came out after 5 minutes and asked if we’d like him to show us around. He liked talking to Gringos and we liked talking to him.

No matter where I travel it’s always the same. Young kids wave, smile, shout, run, play peek-a-boo. Young teenage girls eye out the girl, clearly discussing her dress sense, smiling nicely. Young teenage boys try to look mean and it doesn’t matter who you are and if you say hello, it’s not cool to reply. Adults appreciate a hello, reply politely. Elderlies often make the effort themselves to say hello and smile broadly. From childhood to old age we come full circle. Me – I’ll keep trying to crack one of those teenage boys.

Kuna women loading coconuts

Kuna women loading coconuts

For us the highlight of these village visits are the Kuna Indian women and their traditional dresses, and on this island all of the women were wearing them. Susie has not yet adopted the leg bracelets but she now has an arm bracelet. We bought some bread and a few nick-nacks. Our guide gave us some mangoes as a present and we learnt the Kuna word for thank you is ‘Nu-de’ (noi-de). On leaving, we saw twenty or thirty Kuna women loading a visiting Colombian wooden cargo boat with coconuts. They collect them and sell them. It was a colourful sight and our guide told us that the women did the carrying of bags of coconuts as it was considered easy work!

Susie buying Kuna bracelet

Susie buying Kuna bracelet

Next we head off to an area called Snug Harbour, a 5-6 hour sail away. We’re liking it here, even if those pesky reefs make you a little nervous as you navigate them!

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