Back on the beaten path playing charades in the San Blas islands

Snug Harbour, where we had last left off, was certainly feeling like a little bit of paradise to us. With the only other yacht in this big protected area leaving, we had the entire place to ourselves. Well, except for the little old Kuna man who had been dispatched from his village to collect our $10 anchorage fee. Under the hot sun, he guzzled the 1L bottle of water we’d given him. He then hoisted his little sail made from plastic bagging that is used to ship coconuts off to Colombia, and off he went with our request that anyone with fish to sell would be most welcomed. We later saw a little wooden dugout with two teenagers hand fishing but clearly they were having no luck as they didn’t stop.

In front of us a number of palm tree lined islands protecting us from the seas and behind us lush Panama mountains. It’s said large parts of this area are still totally untouched by mankind. We really did feel remote.

In the morning, Tom got busy checking the rigging, keeping the shrouds free of any unwanted rust caused by salt from the sea, and replacing a forestay pin. Susie worked on our Pacific Ocean joining instructions. Engine and generator checks were done too to keep us in check. In the afternoon we swapped around, Susie doing some ‘housework’ keeping everything neat and organised as she does, and painting the towable generator to prevent that nasty rust, while Tom completed the joining instructions. These joining instructions detail what to expect for our Pacific Ocean crossing from the Galapagos Islands to the Marquesas Islands in French Polynesia. It’s the longest ocean crossing we’ll be doing with a rhumb line of 3000 nautical miles and we hope to be leaving just before mid-April. Having said that, with this year’s abnormal Atlantic weather we did more than 3000 nautical miles getting to the Caribbean. But needless to say we will need crew to help us with the Pacific crossing. And thanks to the efforts of Gareth Wear putting out an e-mail we think we have a very good candidate! We can’t say his name yet, but he belongs to a sailing club we used to belong to, owns a dinghy, we’ve raced with him quite a bit and he’s a jolly nice chap! We’re really hoping it all works out and comes together. It’s a fair old way to fly out, but what an ocean crossing – start in the incredible Gapalagos islands and end up in the Marquesas islands which Jimmy Cornell describes as the most beautiful islands in all of French Polynesia. We’ll let you know once it’s all confirmed – fingers crossed!

Later in the afternoon we hopped in the water to give Adina’s hull a good clean. These warm waters attract all sorts of unwanted souls and you need to ensure you don’t turn into a living reef. We had Adina professionally cleaned just over a month ago but already a bit of sea life was on the advance. Susie cleans the top parts while Tom dives down below armed with brushes and a scraper for the odd barnacle. A year ago it was lunchtime gym sessions, now it’s hull cleaning and exercising the 13 seacocks that provide the work out!

It had been a productive day and we were happy in this tiny little piece of paradise. It’s almost tempting to say stop the clock, this is it, we’re content, bring us fish, Balshi Chill beer from Aruba, we’ll grow coconuts and limes (for the fish and beer), and live happily ever after with the Kuna Indians. But we’ll keep moving as there’s always more adventure to be had.

Up early again and departing at 7am, our destination the Coco Bandero Cays. The wind was somewhat more lively, clouds in the sky, but we had deep water and made good progress. The fishing rod came out of its closet where it had been sat gathering dust. Two hours later it screamed for attention. Tom dashes for rod, autopilot goes on, and Susie gets rid of sails to slow us down. Off went the reel, we could see said fish on the surface. Tighten the reel, too tight, bang, gone! Really?! Log lesson, let fish run a bit more, go back to helm grumpy. At least it looks like the new lures are working rather than the jumbo stuff we had for the Atlantic which just attracted whale sized fish!

The Coco Bandero Cays are one of the San Blas islands most popular islands and we knew we would be back on the well-travelled path. Consisting of a number of small islands covered in palm trees and surrounded by white sands, they are indeed beautiful. Coming in we could see a number of yachts. We had become spoilt having everything to ourselves until now and it felt ungratefully a little depressing. We dodged the reefs and anchored. Off we went for a snorkel. Susie seeing local boys arriving in a wooden dugout swam back to the boat. A few minutes later and hand signals to Tom still in the water. We’d be useless at charades! A turtle? Someone swimming? A rower?  A big Trumpet fish??? Susie had bartered with said local Kuna boys and secured a lobster! There are advantages to being back on the yachtie trail!

Lobster for dinner it is, mashed yam, and perhaps a chilled glass of our dwindling supply of white wine.

Tomorrow we stay put, hoping some of this cloud will blow away, and perhaps some calmer seas as the trade winds are still blowing.

Best get that lobster prepared. Island lifestyle…