Valentines day and goodbye to the San Blas Islands

Parking takes on a whole new meaning…

Another day, and yes, another beautiful island. On arrival, we’d decided that the East Holandes Cays were that beautiful we’d stay put for a whole day. A bunch of islands surrounded by shallow reefs, palm trees gently swinging in the wind, boats dispersed with their owners happily anchored. With the sun going down, a temperature of 30c, a gentle breeze to keep you cool (and more importantly the bugs away), you couldn’t ask for a better setting for a Tanqueray gin and tonic with lime! Just drink in it. The atmosphere that is.

Island reef

The next day we busied ourselves in the morning – there’s always work and planning ahead to be done! Lunch time we got the dinghy out and headed off to an island for a little picnic. Even on some of these tiny islands you get a Kuna Indian family. They seem to exist off the $1 per person beach fee they charge and selling their lovely mulas to the gringos. Fair do’s, they keep the islands tidy and look after them. You can only grow coconuts on these islands and we guess they trade them with passing boats who deliver supplies to the islands (it is strictly forbidden for foreigners to help themselves to coconuts). It seems such a simple life yet the Kuna Indians are known for living a long time. No clogged up lungs from city smoke, no high blood pressure! We bought some little fish for a dollar and cooked them back on the boat. Bed is early just after 8pm as we wake early and the fresh air simply knocks you out!

Up early for our next destination so we can arrive with the sun overhead to spot the menacing shallow reefs. Destination: the island of Porvenir. Porvenir is where you officially check in to Panama but we knew they kindly turn a blind eye to those like us who arrive in the south of the San Blas islands and work their way north. Technically we had left Aruba 13 days ago to get here! The office was clean, tidy and all the paperwork neatly done. However, Panama is not shy on charging cruising boats. US $193 for a cruising permit (for a year, whether you want it or not), $100 per person for a visa and $17 for a Zarpe which is a piece of paper you need for your next port!

Panama is a conservative country and they expect some consideration with regards to dress, especially when dealing with officials. We always make a bit of effort with officialdom and even in island destinations don’t wear swimwear on land off the beach. We had a lovely chat with the officials who were friendly. As we left, in came a bunch of backpackers full of tattoos, wearing bikinis, shorts, no shirts, no shoes. It not only insults the locals but think what impression it leaves of your own country. And you never know when you may need a favour. Enough said.

It’s Valentines Day so fish was needed and we headed to the local village on a neighbouring island. It’s always a bit hit and miss and you have to be lucky on timing that the fishermen are around. Luckily one was just sailing by! Our Kuna guide called him in for us. We had a quick visit of the island which surprised us, still seeming to retain its traditions even in this area well visited by tourists and so close to Panama. The Kuna Indian ladies and their costumes are just our favourite! The people are gentle and friendly, greet you, happily show you around, helping yachties with what they need. Yet not far from here we face Panama City where you have to watch the shirt on your back.

Tonight it’s Valentines Day, that means Partridge in the kitchen! Every year we agree we will take it in turns to treat the other one. Every year it’s Partridge in the kitchen. Never mind, fish have been cleaned (getting good at it!) and a fine meal will be rolled out for the loved one!

Adina anchored off San Blas

And so ends our ten days in these wonderful, wonderful San Blas islands. We’d do it all again in the blink of eye. There’s so much to explore, and while the perfect islands attract most yachties, for an adventurer there are endless possibilities. You could easily spend a year here and have some fabulous experiences. The Kuna Indians are kind, and hospitable. You always have to admire a nationality that preserves its traditions while quietly absorbing the modern world.

Next we spend a few days in Portobello, an old Spanish town in Panama, before heading to Colon to prepare for the next big adventure – the Panama Canal!

San Blas and the Kunas – “Nu-de” (Thank You). We’re sad to be leaving.